Sitting on the beach waiting for my friend to return home, I'm hit with the sudden urge to start walking across the sand. The tide so low it feels like I'm crossing a barren desert. A post-apocalyptic world full of sand, abandoned huts, unnecessary bridges, and no people at all. Until I see him--a man hobbling over a bridge, cane in one hand, a small backpack slung over his shoulder, wearing nothing but a speedo. On the other side of the bridge, he makes his way toward the distant water and plops onto the beach, arms and legs stretched out, face to the sun. What a strange planet, I think.
Back at my friend's hut, we make smoothies and eat cake. This place brings me too much peace, she says. I've stopped thriving. What a conundrum. Like a zen koan. My mind can't figure out what to do with it. I've strived to create peace in my life for as long as I can remember. And once I had it, I wasn't letting it go. But was it causing me to become lazy, to not thrive, to perhaps even block things from my life? A wave of panic rises then fades to dark.
Life on a nearly deserted tropical island in the strange year of 2020. I attempt to ground into it as much as possible. But the harder I try, the more untethered I become, unbound and tumbling into the ether. I grasp at fleeting moments as they slip away, leaving me longing for solid connection and questioning their purpose and lessons.
I call my friend in California at 3am. I'm losing it, I tell her. She sighs. She's been putting up with me for lifetimes. I'm supposed to be in Vietnam. Roadtrip around Ha Giang and Sapa. Head south, explore, research, open portals. I start to ramble. And....she says. I tell her more. And...she says again. She doesn't stop until I purge every last thought and confession. Then she fills all the empty space with wisdom. I'm taking a picture, she finally says. My eyes are bloodshot, I tell her. No way, your eyes are oceans. Yeah, oceans of blood.
Back at my friend's hut, we make smoothies and eat cake. This place brings me too much peace, she says. I've stopped thriving. What a conundrum. Like a zen koan. My mind can't figure out what to do with it. I've strived to create peace in my life for as long as I can remember. And once I had it, I wasn't letting it go. But was it causing me to become lazy, to not thrive, to perhaps even block things from my life? A wave of panic rises then fades to dark.
The next day I swing by Grace's house to say hi. I accidentally stabbed myself in the leg, she says and shows me the wound. Out of control art project, she explains and shrugs. We exchange stories of scars and accidents and the angels who helped us. And all I can think about are scars that can't be seen and invisible angels.
My phone pings. A friend stuck in another part of Thailand has sent me a picture. He's shaved his hair into a mohawk and tie-dyed it rainbow. Cabin Fever, the caption says. Stay wild moon child, I respond. Three weeks later he calls me from an airplane. I'm leaving Thailand. How do you feel about that? I ask. Bad, he says. I get the strange feeling people are going to start losing it very soon. Or they already have, but I've not been seeing it that way.
My phone pings. A friend stuck in another part of Thailand has sent me a picture. He's shaved his hair into a mohawk and tie-dyed it rainbow. Cabin Fever, the caption says. Stay wild moon child, I respond. Three weeks later he calls me from an airplane. I'm leaving Thailand. How do you feel about that? I ask. Bad, he says. I get the strange feeling people are going to start losing it very soon. Or they already have, but I've not been seeing it that way.
I social distance from social media, attend close knit improv sessions, and meet with friends to talk and write. The thing about Koh Phangan, someone says one night, is that no one asks questions. Leaving too much room for assumptions, I think. As intriguing as it is dangerous, I can't shake the thought for days.
Life on a nearly deserted tropical island in the strange year of 2020. I attempt to ground into it as much as possible. But the harder I try, the more untethered I become, unbound and tumbling into the ether. I grasp at fleeting moments as they slip away, leaving me longing for solid connection and questioning their purpose and lessons.
I call my friend in California at 3am. I'm losing it, I tell her. She sighs. She's been putting up with me for lifetimes. I'm supposed to be in Vietnam. Roadtrip around Ha Giang and Sapa. Head south, explore, research, open portals. I start to ramble. And....she says. I tell her more. And...she says again. She doesn't stop until I purge every last thought and confession. Then she fills all the empty space with wisdom. I'm taking a picture, she finally says. My eyes are bloodshot, I tell her. No way, your eyes are oceans. Yeah, oceans of blood.
Late night drives across the island through the jungle, starry skies above me, a quiet darkness surrounding me. I find my way to the beach--no people, hardly any lights, an empty tree swing, fireflies. Surreal. The lightness I've been missing. Freeing and impermanent. Releasing the questions, embracing the mysteries. Untethered and tumbling into the night.
Wow that is amazing Sara. I was disappointed, saddened and shocked when we went to Pipi island about a year ago. Are there many Thais there? I don't think many foreigners can handle the situation especially on the Island as well as the Thais. It is really weird out there. You should come and stay in this house we live in as I would see you as a big easy going asset...not a threat...very chill...good vibes. Great to be around kids. I would just have to convince my wife. Have a good one Sara and talk with you again.
ReplyDeleteHey Mike! I went to the Phi Phi Islands back in 2016 (ABCM teachers trip, Krabi + Phi Phi Islands). Of course, we were on a "tour" and constantly whisked places. Our tour guide only spoke Thai so Narissa had to translate the entire time. Such a strange and funny whirlwind trip! But enjoyable too.
ReplyDeleteYes, I'd say there are probably more Thais here than foreigners at the moment or maybe 50/50. Overall, it's not so bad on Koh Phangan. I can't speak for other islands, but I'm really glad to be here, better than many places. If we are granted more amnesty time, I'll definitely be visiting Chiang Mai! And I may take you up on that offer 😀 I'll keep you updated!
Thanks for writing and keeping in touch!
Sarah
Years ago I traveled to Koh Chang. It was suggested that I give my passport and money to a particular Thai gent for save keepings since the beach where I was staying — forgot the name — had only open huts with no safes, lockers, etc. I learned the next day that the man looking after my passport had gone to town. A few more days passed and he hadn't returned. I started regretting how "stupid" I was to hand over my goods to a total stranger. I was getting nervous about my situation and my mind ran wild with "what-ifs." I stopped seeing this tropical beach as wondrous and beautiful and more like an ugly island jail with no way out.
ReplyDeleteI decided to go my favorite outdoor cafe and I asked the Lady Boy manger —we had developed a friendship — if he could help me. I explained my situation, and he said follow me. We walked over to the hut where I had given up my valuables. My Thai friend appeared a couple minutes later and said he would check with the people next door about my passport and money. Yikes! — I figured this was due-or-die. A couple minutes pass and my "new best friend" exits the hut with my valuables in hand, and said, the other guy gave your belongings to his friend for safe keepings while he was going to town.
What a relief to say the least! Of course I thought why wasn't I told that another person would be my new "safe-keeper?" But that's not the Thai way... "what's the big deal?"
I can honestly say that I was starting to become untethered in the "Land of Smiles"
As they say in Thai, "my dee," no good!
Hey Paul! Wow, what a story! Being thrown into the Thai school system right away, I learned pretty quickly that things do not function like they do in the "western world." It was like a microcosm of Thailand. Seemingly chaotic, but things worked. I just had to let myself be whisked around in it or else I'd go crazy (many teachers couldn't handle it).
ReplyDeleteThanks for the story and keeping in touch! Hope all is well in Santa Cruz Land 😀